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Toyin Reminisces as They achieve Their Goal To Reach The Arctic

We crossed the Finish Line!

There is an African proverb that says “to go quickly, go alone. But to go far, go together..”. This is so true. I have set and overcome quite a number of personal goals in my life. But I was clever enough to know that to achieve anything significant in this life and to overcome great obstacles in life, you need the support and cooperation of others, and oftentimes others who are much smarter than yourself. We knew from the beginning that this adventure was going to be very challenging and would demand that we remain focused, very dynamic, creative and doggedly determined to do our homework carefully and then hope for the best.

 

Right off the bat we grappled with visa difficulties for Fodeks and I. But we simply refused to quit. When the Spanish embassy in Lagos denied us the Schengen visa (which happened to be a very significant segment of this adventure and would also make it possible for us to ride in Europe after holding our passports for over four weeks), we decided to ride our motorcycles 750 kilometers to Abuja, the Capital city of Nigeria, where we then applied for the same visa through the French Embassy. We were smiled on by God’s grace when the gentleman that interviewed us happened to be an adventure biker himself. Things began to look hopeful. Ten days later, we received our passports with the Schengen visas. Unfortunately, we were allowed only 15 days of stay in Europe, but we were massively grateful still. Things had changed for good. We were quite excited. We then applied for the visas deniedMorocco visa which we were also granted. But by then, we knew that the adventure had to be limited to Africa and Europe on this first leg, so we made the Arctic Circle our final destination of choice. The journey commenced on the 2nd of March, 2015, after Raph and Raha had spent five days with us in Lagos fine-tuning the plan. It was five gruelling days of tuning, fine tuning, tuning again and then repeating the process over and over. A process that will only end the day we finally ride back into Lagos.

 

 

Right from the African continent we began to face massive challenges, the most frustrating of which was the Mauritanians’ refusal to grant us access into the country at the border. We had gone through the process of loading the bikes on the ferry that crossed the Senegal River into Mauritania at the Rosso border (which wasn’t cheap by the way) against the advice of all the touts at the border. We had all the right paperwork and had gone through too much to be turned back. Besides, officially, we were entitled to visas at the border, so there was no plausible reason on earth that we should have been refused entry into the country. We even had in our possession, a letter from one of Nigeria’s most popular ex- Presidents making us pretty confident that we would be allowed in. As it turned out, our confidence was misplaced. The immigration officers seized our passports and told us we couldn’t proceed any further and had to pay for the return tickets and get back on the ferry before they gave us our passports, which is exactly what happened.

 

 

Reentry into Senegal was an unnecessarily long and annoyingly painful process. Anyway, we rode back to Dakar and flew our bikes to France. Not as easy as it sounds in that one sentence. It was five days of painfully frustrating work in a predominantly French speaking country. We then flew ahead of the bikes into France to continue with the adventure. The bikes were delayed by an additional four days in Dakar. And it took us three needless days to clear the bikes from customs in France. But surprisingly, the actual event of clearing the bikes through customs and collecting the bikes took less than two hours. So the other remaining time was lost to ignorance. The company that the agents consigned our bikes to in France were experts at shipping fresh produce. Not vehicles.

Bikes transported by van to the airport
Bikes get carried by a rickety van to the airport. You can’t believe how much they charged for the lift!

We got our bikes and after dealing with a few mechanical and electrical issues in 5 degrees weather in France, we rode off for the Europe leg of the adventure. Logging an average of 600 kilometers almost everyday through France, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, and back and then heading to Denmark and finally a train ride from Stockholm to Kiruna in Norway, where we arrived the finish line. We had ridden day and night in freezing cold and in the rain. Through flat plains, hills, the Swiss alps, tunnels, slow roads, fast roads, big cities, small towns, good times, bad times, happy moments, sad moments. But we got here! Kiruna is actually 200 kilometers into the Arctic Circle so we beat the deadline and the finish line by an additional 200 kilometers. When we disembarked the train in Kiruna, we were overcome by all sorts of emotions. But we were overjoyed, relieved, very fulfilled. Now we could exhale. However, the journey is not over yet. The battle and tweeting continues until the bikes arrive Africa, clear customs and we ride back into Nigeria. Then and only then will be able to sign off and lean back for a rest….

Happiness in the Arctic

I’m sitting and typing this from the reception at the Ice Hotel in Kiruna, while Raph and Fodeks are walking around in the snow in minus 2 degrees, and it’s snowing. I find that I’m quite satisfied with the dosage of snow exposure I’ve had for the moment. Thank you. After spending hours on a snowmobile in the Swedish woods last night where we were told there were brown bears and wolves up in the mountains, and after sleeping in a room built with ice and sleeping on a bed made from ice, I’m quite ready for the African tropics, thank you.

 

We thank every single person and organization that supported us from the beginning to the end. A A Rano Nigeria Limited, Lakeside Energy Limited, Castor Vali and Touratech. We also thank Tanglewood for doing such an amazing job. We made it to the finish line because of your professional ethics and versatility. So, the return journey begins in a couple of hours. And after simmering for a little bit, we shall pull out a world map again to decide the next destination, the next challenge… The adventure continues..

Mr T

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Riders and Bikes Reunited After Almost A Week of Beaurocracy

Fodeks explains how they got their bikes back after multiple complications, a million phone calls, taxi rides, moody bureaucrats and disappointments of getting them from Dakar to Paris:

My faith in humanity got a mega boost today. We met a couple of people today that reiterates the message from my older post. Miracles abound and avail themselves to the needy. After 3 days of twiddling our thumbs, we arrived at the office of a company called DB Schenker, not far from the Zone De Fret at Orly International. Sheriff from Smith & Craft, Senegal, had penned them in as receiving agents to clear our bikes here. Much had been said during the past few days without any significant progress. We even had to contend with more bad news first on arrival when the boss of the office first told us that our bikes had been impounded by customs because we didn’t have an “international passport” for the bikes…..the sun set in my heart sharp sharp. But u all need to know that sometimes, just when things have reached the “last bus stop”, and you can find the strength to just hold out, that’s when God bestows upon you a miracle. This miracle can manifest itself in anyway The Lord chooses, and in our case, it came as 2 French dudes. After some truncated discussion, we were off to the customs office at the airport itself, where our bikes, we had been originally told, were sealed. We were also told that we will have to make a deposit for the bikes, worth a percentage of the purchase value. The bikes were valued at about 18k in euros. Also, we might be restricted to exiting from the same country of entry. This is all one disaster after another. And without the so called “bike passport”, we might not even be given the bikes at all. Fingers crossed, with hearts in mouth, we were ushered into the Douane (customs) office and Miracles kicked into high gear. For clarity sake, please permit me to list the ensuing events in my best checklist form. (pardon).

1. Pleasantly stern faced officer greets and listens to our plight (A DB Schenker staff who spoke passable english had volunteered to come along to assist with translations).

2. The stern faced guy consults with his boss and they both look through our papers.

3. They make photocopies of the required papers, fill out a form, stamp said and …… Finish!!! Bye…..Asta La vista….aurevoire….

Whoosh!!!! Ten minutes, maybe? And it was over. Smiles and handshakes and stamped permit for the bikes to be on European soil for 21 days and could leave from any country of our choice and not a cent paid on them!!! Miracle….. Oooooohhhh yeeeaaahhhh!! Fabrics from DB Schenker then fast-tracked the remaining documentation, sent one of his guys ahead to submit them to the warehouse people while we filled out the final paperwork and we were finally reunited with our bikes. All told, the process took maybe 2 hours. Worthy of note, never let the grumpy exterior of a Frenchman fool you. They are really nice and helpful people inside. Hugable teddys.

Anywhoo, our journey continues. God willing, when I post my next update later tonite, it will be from Germany where we are being hosted by Touratech.

Sorry I ever doubt you, Lord. And until the next time I do, I humbly and sincerely promise not to doubt you again.

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Out of Africa

Ladies and gentlemen, Elvis has left the building. We bid Africa adieu and progress to the Europe leg of the trip.

After much gnashing of teeth, negotiations and counter negotiations, the OON team is finally back on the road.

Sitting at the agency desk
Does it look fun?

Technically, at least. We are currently at Mohammed V international airport, Casablanca, Morocco enroute Paris, France.

More waiting and queuing
Queues, bureaucracy and a grilling from Paris customs await us…..do we look worried?

Our bikes leave Dakar tomorrow night.

Bikes transported by van to the airport
Bikes get carried by a rickety van to the airport. You can’t believe how much they charged for the lift!

We are going to attempt to  get our shenghen visas extended when we get there while waiting for the bikes to arrive. Raha has been burning the midnight oil since last week and has been able to put together a formidable portfolio which she feels confident will sway the decision in our favour.
That said, we are sitting on the airport lounge awaiting our connecting flight. On the flight over, I had the chance to see the land of Morocco from the air. I received the shocker of my life. Vegetation as far as the eyes could see!!! What?? Where the tumbling sand dunes that I thought Morocco was all about? Equal parts desert sand and stifling heat, mixed in with copious doses of flies and other crawlies!!! For some reason, that’s what I expected fo meet. Quite the contrary. Lush greens, lakes and water bodies dotted the sprawling countryside. Incredible! In fact, rain had just stopped falling minutes before our plane landed and the air still had that fresh rain smell. Unreal.

 

Looking at the map, I guess there must be some parts of the country that’s sand and heat, but its not as extensive as you’d expect. Some part of the southernmost part of the country does border the Sahara. But the view of the middle of the country to the extreme west and coastline, as seen from the air, reminds you of any typical European country, with similar proportions of farmlands, residential settlements, road networks and urban spreads. Wow I’m amazed. We missed riding through this amazing country. Damn the Mauritanian government. The realization amongst the team is that we are now flying over what might very well have been the highlight of the African leg of our adventure. Sad. Really sad. Even now, minds are clicking and ticking, trying to work out how not to miss this treat completely.

As we sit in the aircraft looking out over this highly developed land, it seems our mission statement is changing and modifying right before our eyes. The need to showcase Nigeria to the world, as important and noble an idea as it might be, might not even compare in importance as bringing the story of the strides and progress of our neighbouring countries back home to Nigeria, that we realise how far behind we are in the overall scheme of things, and how much work we need to be doing. We can no longer say that we are the giant of Africa without telling a big fat lie. Far from it. I have determined to produce a comparison table to highlight what I mean in facts and figures.

Nigeria…..there is much to be done.

The longer we roam aimlessly as a nation, without program nor direction, without measurable indices to chart progress, the further behind we get. We piss away millions of unharnessed minds in our juvenile hunt for personal wealth and selfish acclaim while true desire for progress is widely exhibited everywhere else around us, clear as day. We shall soon become the cesspool next door, to be avoided like a plague. No country is without its problems but that is no excuse for a failure to grow. The welfare of its people is still priority even in the worst and poorest of the countries we travelled. Even in countries recently or currently struggling through the after effects of wars and battle, genuine effort on the part of those tasked with the duty of government is seen and tangibly felt. God dey oh. More questions than answers.

About to board our connecting flight. Keep in touch. Fodeks.

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Travelling to the Arctic – Uphill All The Way.

Oh man!! I feel like I’ve just been kicked in the gut by a huge horse! I’m just finding out that due to a technicality on our visas, we have only 15 days to spend in Europe!!!! @#!!#@@#!!#@!!!!!!!! The hits just keep on coming.

 

It’s been one hell of a day. Mentally and emotionally drained. We finally have found an air cargo company to move our bikes to France for a boatload of money. It’s not that it took almost 4 days that’s the kicker. It’s not even that the cost is through the roof and beyond our original budget. By God’s grace, that’s something Toyin’s Pandora’s box will overcome. The biggest problem is that the freighting company will only take payment in cash!!! Can u even begin to understand the rigours of putting almost 3million CFA together in cash?  It’s unreal. First, the maximum that can withdraw from any ATM here is 480k per day. That’s if u find a machine that will accept MasterCard cards. Let’s all do the maths. If you have money in only the one account, then you’ll need 7 days to get that money together. Getting the picture?

 

The bikes now have to be prepped for the long trip. This entails draining all three of all fluids, petrol, engine oil and brake fluid. We call our friend Saidu who had worked magic on Raph’s bike when his transmission oil had been leaking. He eventually met us at our hotel to carry out the necessary works. In the midst of this all, a friend of ours, Gerald, who is Nigerian and works with the West African Democracy Radio based here in Dakar, came out to interview us. The plan is to run our story, our trials and tribulations, on his radio show later today. I definitely have a lot to say!  I think the copy of the show will be posted on our page soon. I’ll confirm that.

 

We then went to the bank to start the tedious process of putting the freight company’s cash together. While this is going on, Raph also has to keep track of the moving company representatives coming to move our bikes to the airport for processing and onwards movement. They are supposed to be coming in a truck of sorts. We battle across three or so ATMs, skimming the max values till we get about half the money. We even convert dollars to CFA to add to. Side story….in Senegal, petrol attendants willingly change forex to CFA for you. True. Weird abi? Anywhoo. We pocket what we have and scoot over to a travel agent to make arrangements for our own tickets to France.

 

Oh man!! I feel like I’ve just been kicked in the gut by a huge horse! …… Oh. Did I say that before? Sorry. First, we can’t buy one-way tickets cos they say the airlines wouldn’t let us fly out. Even though we plan to ride back, we are forced to buy two-way tickets at least for Toyin and myself. Raph is ok, as usual. I’m thinking we should get him a Nigerian passport and see how long his luck holds out. Tsk. He gets a one-way ticket and is good to go. By now the cost is absolutely astronomical. I think this totals another whopping 800k CFA. That’s another 2 days ATM surfing added to our worries. Please bear with me, I’ve temporarily run out of swear words. We are now all looking weary. There’s just so many speed bumps a man’s shock absorbers are designed to take before they’re kaput and I’m wondering how much more resolve the team has to call upon. I hope, collectively, we can overcome this. I’m made more and more aware everyday about what it takes to push a unique idea to completion. The sacrifices are immense. And no matter how strong a person is, having people who share your ideas and values can only be a huge plus. This project has to be about overcoming obstacles. The road to this present day is paved and littered with obstacles and challenges. Sadly, most of them are centred around the mistrust Nigerians have come to be synonymous with. At all levels, in almost all quarters, we are met with resistance, mistrust and animosity. What causes it? Just our 419 boys? Drugs? The phenomena of international crime is not our sole property. Every country on earth has their own fair investors in the world of crime. Why then is ours singled out for this particularly harsh reaction around the world? I keep asking myself. As we in Nigerian colloquialism, “wetin we do wey dey make dem wan fall we hand so?” And now that we find ourselves in this quandary, what is the required cause of action from here on? Do we continue to ostrich away in the hope that this situation and reputation will somehow wipe itself away like footprints in the sands of a particularly windy shore? This trip has just unearthed more questions than answers for me. One thing for sure “we can’t continue like this” is no longer just street slang or a pun. Change can either be anticipated or unforeseen and history may very well be unkind to them that tarry.

 

As for the OON team, we soldier on. Our bikes are good as on a ‘Cossair’ cargo plane destined for Paris. We are likely to be on a similar flight to be reunited on Thursday, by God’s grace. Chin up and chest proud. Raph came up with a catch phrase: One Jew and two Nigerians walk into a bar….. (what’s the punch line to that???!!!!!) Have a great evening, folks.

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