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Motorbike Trips Motorcycle Diaries News & Announcements Trip Planning

Fodeks’ Round-Up of The Journey So Far


The Out Of Nigeria project is by far the single largest project I’ve embarked on, besides getting married. Now, on a train back to Stockholm from the Ice Hotel at Kiruna, I look back at the past 4 weeks and how far we have come, against all odds. Truth be told, even if I have to say so myself, we pulled off quite a stunt and jumped through countless hoops just to be here. What we were able to do with the 15 days Shenzhen visa we were given has been almost unbelievable. It’s not really quite all sunk in yet.

The objective of this project was simple. To inspire. To engage the world in discussion about Nigeria in all her positivity. Showcase our beautiful country in her prom dress, figuratively speaking. Much has been said about our country in recent times, all negative, mostly deserved. Yeah, we haven’t really helped ourselves at all on the international scene, and not having a single internationally viewed news and lifestyle platform leaves us exposed to the mechanization of foreign perception which the rest of the world clings to. Our cat is so belled and we are unable to retell nor advertise the achievements of any of our millions of hard working citizens who struggle virtually unnoticed, striving to overcome life’s multiple challenges. As we all know, no news sells like bad news and so our current currency of export as far as world media is concerned is only the corruption, insurgency and violence of the ethnic, religious and political variety. I think time has come to make a stand. Embark on change. Rewrite our Happily Ever After. As with the drop and the ocean moral, no ripple is too small. Conditions permitting, a ripple can grow into a wave. That’s my sincere belief and by embarking on this project, Toyin was clear that we must take our story of the true Nigerian spirit out into the world, a seed we hope and pray will be nurtured someday into an oak.

We have been privileged during this trip, to have audience with a large variety of people from very diverse works of life, ethnic and cultural backgrounds, races and creeds. It’s been mind blowing. From the relatively conservative French, the efficient Germans, the bubbly spirited Italians, (including my positively insane friend Davide from Milan), we met all sorts of people, and engaged in some really deep and sincere dialogue about our country, it’s foreign image, the negative actions of a few black sheep from our country, foreign impressions of us and our politics, past relationships, if any, they might have had with Nigerians. All said, we hope that in the minds of these people at least, we have planted that seed. Fingers crossed. During our time here, though completely short changed by visa duration, we were able to meet with prominent motorcycle magazines and tv personalities who believed in our project…..almost more than Toyin and I did!! One young writer for a Dutch Motorcycle magazine actually rode an hour plus in the freezing rain to meet with us in Germany when he heard we couldn’t make Holland anymore. That’s humbling.

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Our day at Touratech in Germany was like a script straight out of a really good movie. Toyin had to do a lot of the talking on our behalf because my brain functions took leave of me that day, I was so awestruck. The company CEO took time out of his busy schedule to meet with us and we were able to exchange views about our common denominator, motorcycle adventure. The man is nothing short of an icon. Believe that!!! I stared and gawked, gawked and stared in some kind of “replay all” mode. A day to cherish.

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As with all things regarding this project, the mission objectives were also in a constant state of evolution. While riding thought the largely unspoiled beauty that is Africa, it became clear that we needed to try and relay a message home to Nigerians about the progress being accomplished by all our continental neighbors in all aspects: infrastructure, development, security chief amongst these. The base line here, folks, is our neighbors are getting on with their lives while we wallow in the self deception of our status in continental politics and events. We need to wake up. The 21st century bus is leaving the station and it will be a shame if we aren’t on it.

 

The experience of this project can’t be complete without saying thank you to a lot of people. I will try not to leave out anyone. Remember though, Forgiveness is divine. My wife and kids, whom I hope to be reunited with soon, Toyin Adebola, the mastermind and financier for this project. Rohit Nandal, who got us audience with Gen. Obasanjo (rtd.), Raph and Raha, our awesome project management team from Tanglewood Productions. They are also responsible for developing the amazing online media platform through which we could share and engage people about our experiences. Our friends and online support, without whom this would just have been 2 guys riding off “somewhere”. Your followership and useful comments showed that we are an informed people and this all made the sacrifices worthwhile. Salute! Fitzgerald Murray-Bruce, who met and rode with us in Accra, Ghana. Seems like a lifetime ago now.  Aminata, Gerald and our Casa Mara family who made our forced stay in beautiful Dakar, Senegal, bearable and understood our grumpiness. Merci! Thanks, Gerald. Your enthusiasm for all that’s good about our country Nigeria is both infectious and commendable. Be strong, bro. Amandine, our French host. Margaret, from Touratech, who hooked us up with awesome thermal gear. You are a lifesaver. Mr. Herbert Swartz, the CEO of Touratech. Thank you for your time and unbelievable generosity. Thanks to Claudio Gynpek for the introduction. Francesco Veneziani in Milan, whose constant brainstorming helped us out of a scrape or two along the way. Tom, who braved the elements to meet with us. Crazy Davide Virardi, who rode an hour and a half and waited another 3 hours for us at the Switzerland/Italy border just to show us into Milan.

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Now, as we near the end of this adventure, we make a mad dash across the Swedish countryside to catch a flight out of Stockholm before our visas expires in a couple of days, leaving Raph with the unpleasant task of getting the bikes shipped out to the prearranged rendezvous on our great continent, I dial “reflection mode”. Reliving all my experiences with my now confirmed best friend and brother, Toyin Adebola. He’s made up of all the right ingredients…happy, sad, worried, excited, bullish, charming, moody, electric……all at 200 miles an hour. Built like a GS1200. Thank you, sir. I hope I get the honor of revenging soon. Visiting the python house and walking the slave “road of no return” in Benin Republic, the Basilica in Cote D’Ivoire, being turned back from the Mauritanian border like some homeless waifs, the unforgiving French bread we had to eat everyday for breakfast, French and Italian words and phrases we picked up along the way, places we visited, willingly or otherwise, like the quaint antiquated fishing town of Saint Louis in Senegal, the Louvre and Eiffel Tower in Paris, the ever incompetent airfreight agent, Sheriff from Smith & Craft, Dakar, winding mountain roads in Zurich, the German autobahn with no speed limits, the freezing cold and hot coffee everyone is so hyped about, which is never actually hot, but lukewarm, snowmobile riding in Sweden, sleeping in the sub-degree cold room at the Ice Hotel, feeding reindeer and eating Moose sandwiches.IMG_3101

God has proven Himself great in my life. I will be forever grateful for His steadfastness. We have all truly been blessed by this project, in ways we may not even yet fathom. Are we better people for this experience? I want to believe so. Would I have done things differently? Maybe. Hindsight is always married to 20/20 vision. Did we succeed in inspiring anyone? I hope so. Is the job done? Not by a mile!!!!!! Hehehehehe.

 

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Toyin Reminisces as They achieve Their Goal To Reach The Arctic

We crossed the Finish Line!

There is an African proverb that says “to go quickly, go alone. But to go far, go together..”. This is so true. I have set and overcome quite a number of personal goals in my life. But I was clever enough to know that to achieve anything significant in this life and to overcome great obstacles in life, you need the support and cooperation of others, and oftentimes others who are much smarter than yourself. We knew from the beginning that this adventure was going to be very challenging and would demand that we remain focused, very dynamic, creative and doggedly determined to do our homework carefully and then hope for the best.

 

Right off the bat we grappled with visa difficulties for Fodeks and I. But we simply refused to quit. When the Spanish embassy in Lagos denied us the Schengen visa (which happened to be a very significant segment of this adventure and would also make it possible for us to ride in Europe after holding our passports for over four weeks), we decided to ride our motorcycles 750 kilometers to Abuja, the Capital city of Nigeria, where we then applied for the same visa through the French Embassy. We were smiled on by God’s grace when the gentleman that interviewed us happened to be an adventure biker himself. Things began to look hopeful. Ten days later, we received our passports with the Schengen visas. Unfortunately, we were allowed only 15 days of stay in Europe, but we were massively grateful still. Things had changed for good. We were quite excited. We then applied for the visas deniedMorocco visa which we were also granted. But by then, we knew that the adventure had to be limited to Africa and Europe on this first leg, so we made the Arctic Circle our final destination of choice. The journey commenced on the 2nd of March, 2015, after Raph and Raha had spent five days with us in Lagos fine-tuning the plan. It was five gruelling days of tuning, fine tuning, tuning again and then repeating the process over and over. A process that will only end the day we finally ride back into Lagos.

 

 

Right from the African continent we began to face massive challenges, the most frustrating of which was the Mauritanians’ refusal to grant us access into the country at the border. We had gone through the process of loading the bikes on the ferry that crossed the Senegal River into Mauritania at the Rosso border (which wasn’t cheap by the way) against the advice of all the touts at the border. We had all the right paperwork and had gone through too much to be turned back. Besides, officially, we were entitled to visas at the border, so there was no plausible reason on earth that we should have been refused entry into the country. We even had in our possession, a letter from one of Nigeria’s most popular ex- Presidents making us pretty confident that we would be allowed in. As it turned out, our confidence was misplaced. The immigration officers seized our passports and told us we couldn’t proceed any further and had to pay for the return tickets and get back on the ferry before they gave us our passports, which is exactly what happened.

 

 

Reentry into Senegal was an unnecessarily long and annoyingly painful process. Anyway, we rode back to Dakar and flew our bikes to France. Not as easy as it sounds in that one sentence. It was five days of painfully frustrating work in a predominantly French speaking country. We then flew ahead of the bikes into France to continue with the adventure. The bikes were delayed by an additional four days in Dakar. And it took us three needless days to clear the bikes from customs in France. But surprisingly, the actual event of clearing the bikes through customs and collecting the bikes took less than two hours. So the other remaining time was lost to ignorance. The company that the agents consigned our bikes to in France were experts at shipping fresh produce. Not vehicles.

Bikes transported by van to the airport
Bikes get carried by a rickety van to the airport. You can’t believe how much they charged for the lift!

We got our bikes and after dealing with a few mechanical and electrical issues in 5 degrees weather in France, we rode off for the Europe leg of the adventure. Logging an average of 600 kilometers almost everyday through France, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, and back and then heading to Denmark and finally a train ride from Stockholm to Kiruna in Norway, where we arrived the finish line. We had ridden day and night in freezing cold and in the rain. Through flat plains, hills, the Swiss alps, tunnels, slow roads, fast roads, big cities, small towns, good times, bad times, happy moments, sad moments. But we got here! Kiruna is actually 200 kilometers into the Arctic Circle so we beat the deadline and the finish line by an additional 200 kilometers. When we disembarked the train in Kiruna, we were overcome by all sorts of emotions. But we were overjoyed, relieved, very fulfilled. Now we could exhale. However, the journey is not over yet. The battle and tweeting continues until the bikes arrive Africa, clear customs and we ride back into Nigeria. Then and only then will be able to sign off and lean back for a rest….

Happiness in the Arctic

I’m sitting and typing this from the reception at the Ice Hotel in Kiruna, while Raph and Fodeks are walking around in the snow in minus 2 degrees, and it’s snowing. I find that I’m quite satisfied with the dosage of snow exposure I’ve had for the moment. Thank you. After spending hours on a snowmobile in the Swedish woods last night where we were told there were brown bears and wolves up in the mountains, and after sleeping in a room built with ice and sleeping on a bed made from ice, I’m quite ready for the African tropics, thank you.

 

We thank every single person and organization that supported us from the beginning to the end. A A Rano Nigeria Limited, Lakeside Energy Limited, Castor Vali and Touratech. We also thank Tanglewood for doing such an amazing job. We made it to the finish line because of your professional ethics and versatility. So, the return journey begins in a couple of hours. And after simmering for a little bit, we shall pull out a world map again to decide the next destination, the next challenge… The adventure continues..

Mr T

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Riders and Bikes Reunited After Almost A Week of Beaurocracy

Fodeks explains how they got their bikes back after multiple complications, a million phone calls, taxi rides, moody bureaucrats and disappointments of getting them from Dakar to Paris:

My faith in humanity got a mega boost today. We met a couple of people today that reiterates the message from my older post. Miracles abound and avail themselves to the needy. After 3 days of twiddling our thumbs, we arrived at the office of a company called DB Schenker, not far from the Zone De Fret at Orly International. Sheriff from Smith & Craft, Senegal, had penned them in as receiving agents to clear our bikes here. Much had been said during the past few days without any significant progress. We even had to contend with more bad news first on arrival when the boss of the office first told us that our bikes had been impounded by customs because we didn’t have an “international passport” for the bikes…..the sun set in my heart sharp sharp. But u all need to know that sometimes, just when things have reached the “last bus stop”, and you can find the strength to just hold out, that’s when God bestows upon you a miracle. This miracle can manifest itself in anyway The Lord chooses, and in our case, it came as 2 French dudes. After some truncated discussion, we were off to the customs office at the airport itself, where our bikes, we had been originally told, were sealed. We were also told that we will have to make a deposit for the bikes, worth a percentage of the purchase value. The bikes were valued at about 18k in euros. Also, we might be restricted to exiting from the same country of entry. This is all one disaster after another. And without the so called “bike passport”, we might not even be given the bikes at all. Fingers crossed, with hearts in mouth, we were ushered into the Douane (customs) office and Miracles kicked into high gear. For clarity sake, please permit me to list the ensuing events in my best checklist form. (pardon).

1. Pleasantly stern faced officer greets and listens to our plight (A DB Schenker staff who spoke passable english had volunteered to come along to assist with translations).

2. The stern faced guy consults with his boss and they both look through our papers.

3. They make photocopies of the required papers, fill out a form, stamp said and …… Finish!!! Bye…..Asta La vista….aurevoire….

Whoosh!!!! Ten minutes, maybe? And it was over. Smiles and handshakes and stamped permit for the bikes to be on European soil for 21 days and could leave from any country of our choice and not a cent paid on them!!! Miracle….. Oooooohhhh yeeeaaahhhh!! Fabrics from DB Schenker then fast-tracked the remaining documentation, sent one of his guys ahead to submit them to the warehouse people while we filled out the final paperwork and we were finally reunited with our bikes. All told, the process took maybe 2 hours. Worthy of note, never let the grumpy exterior of a Frenchman fool you. They are really nice and helpful people inside. Hugable teddys.

Anywhoo, our journey continues. God willing, when I post my next update later tonite, it will be from Germany where we are being hosted by Touratech.

Sorry I ever doubt you, Lord. And until the next time I do, I humbly and sincerely promise not to doubt you again.

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Travelling to the Arctic – Uphill All The Way.

Oh man!! I feel like I’ve just been kicked in the gut by a huge horse! I’m just finding out that due to a technicality on our visas, we have only 15 days to spend in Europe!!!! @#!!#@@#!!#@!!!!!!!! The hits just keep on coming.

 

It’s been one hell of a day. Mentally and emotionally drained. We finally have found an air cargo company to move our bikes to France for a boatload of money. It’s not that it took almost 4 days that’s the kicker. It’s not even that the cost is through the roof and beyond our original budget. By God’s grace, that’s something Toyin’s Pandora’s box will overcome. The biggest problem is that the freighting company will only take payment in cash!!! Can u even begin to understand the rigours of putting almost 3million CFA together in cash?  It’s unreal. First, the maximum that can withdraw from any ATM here is 480k per day. That’s if u find a machine that will accept MasterCard cards. Let’s all do the maths. If you have money in only the one account, then you’ll need 7 days to get that money together. Getting the picture?

 

The bikes now have to be prepped for the long trip. This entails draining all three of all fluids, petrol, engine oil and brake fluid. We call our friend Saidu who had worked magic on Raph’s bike when his transmission oil had been leaking. He eventually met us at our hotel to carry out the necessary works. In the midst of this all, a friend of ours, Gerald, who is Nigerian and works with the West African Democracy Radio based here in Dakar, came out to interview us. The plan is to run our story, our trials and tribulations, on his radio show later today. I definitely have a lot to say!  I think the copy of the show will be posted on our page soon. I’ll confirm that.

 

We then went to the bank to start the tedious process of putting the freight company’s cash together. While this is going on, Raph also has to keep track of the moving company representatives coming to move our bikes to the airport for processing and onwards movement. They are supposed to be coming in a truck of sorts. We battle across three or so ATMs, skimming the max values till we get about half the money. We even convert dollars to CFA to add to. Side story….in Senegal, petrol attendants willingly change forex to CFA for you. True. Weird abi? Anywhoo. We pocket what we have and scoot over to a travel agent to make arrangements for our own tickets to France.

 

Oh man!! I feel like I’ve just been kicked in the gut by a huge horse! …… Oh. Did I say that before? Sorry. First, we can’t buy one-way tickets cos they say the airlines wouldn’t let us fly out. Even though we plan to ride back, we are forced to buy two-way tickets at least for Toyin and myself. Raph is ok, as usual. I’m thinking we should get him a Nigerian passport and see how long his luck holds out. Tsk. He gets a one-way ticket and is good to go. By now the cost is absolutely astronomical. I think this totals another whopping 800k CFA. That’s another 2 days ATM surfing added to our worries. Please bear with me, I’ve temporarily run out of swear words. We are now all looking weary. There’s just so many speed bumps a man’s shock absorbers are designed to take before they’re kaput and I’m wondering how much more resolve the team has to call upon. I hope, collectively, we can overcome this. I’m made more and more aware everyday about what it takes to push a unique idea to completion. The sacrifices are immense. And no matter how strong a person is, having people who share your ideas and values can only be a huge plus. This project has to be about overcoming obstacles. The road to this present day is paved and littered with obstacles and challenges. Sadly, most of them are centred around the mistrust Nigerians have come to be synonymous with. At all levels, in almost all quarters, we are met with resistance, mistrust and animosity. What causes it? Just our 419 boys? Drugs? The phenomena of international crime is not our sole property. Every country on earth has their own fair investors in the world of crime. Why then is ours singled out for this particularly harsh reaction around the world? I keep asking myself. As we in Nigerian colloquialism, “wetin we do wey dey make dem wan fall we hand so?” And now that we find ourselves in this quandary, what is the required cause of action from here on? Do we continue to ostrich away in the hope that this situation and reputation will somehow wipe itself away like footprints in the sands of a particularly windy shore? This trip has just unearthed more questions than answers for me. One thing for sure “we can’t continue like this” is no longer just street slang or a pun. Change can either be anticipated or unforeseen and history may very well be unkind to them that tarry.

 

As for the OON team, we soldier on. Our bikes are good as on a ‘Cossair’ cargo plane destined for Paris. We are likely to be on a similar flight to be reunited on Thursday, by God’s grace. Chin up and chest proud. Raph came up with a catch phrase: One Jew and two Nigerians walk into a bar….. (what’s the punch line to that???!!!!!) Have a great evening, folks.

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