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Motorcycle Diaries

Raphael’s Highlights Day 1 to 3 – Out of Nigeria

Day 4 of our epic adventure and I really feel that the scale of the challenge is beginning to dawn on us. After 3  long days of tough riding, tough roads and even tougher bureaucracy at border crossings, we were all exhausted. Toyin has been ill which has left him even more drained, Fodeks has been silently suffering agonising tooth pain and I just ache all over (including my rear!).

Looking at the map we are only a fraction of the way into our journey but I feel as though we have been through so much already. One of the things that I was expecting as a white guy in West Africa was to receive extra attention as I stand out from the crowd but what we’ve found is that people look at all of us as if we are from another planet! I guess it’s just as unusual to see a white guy passing through on a huge bike as it is to see two black guys doing the same! One thing I wasn’t prepared for is how long it takes to get through the border crossings which are some of the most hectic, seemingly chaotic places I have ever been. Thankfully Fodeks and Toyin have been more than patient putting up with the extra time it takes to get through with a British passport.

 

One question that we have heard a lot from everyone we meet on the road, from people at petrol stations to police at check points and guards at borders is ‘why’? Why are we riding all that way on bikes? It is actually quite a difficult question to answer when put so directly. My short answer is usually: ‘for the adventure’. But that seems inadequate when I say it and just makes them more confused.

 

The truth is that there are lots of reasons and as a new friend that I met tonight put it: ‘you have your reasons now, but you may find that your reasons are different in two months’ time.’

 

One thing that we have come to rely on are the regular surprises. From the warmth and encouragement from friends and strangers on social media to unsolicited support from major European manufacturers to stunning scenery and the huge generosity of local people. But the biggest surprise for me is how well the OON team are bonding. Toyin and Fodeks know each other pretty well but before I came to Nigeria I didn’t really know Toyin that well and hadn’t even met Fodeks before, well I really lucked out as I couldn’t have chosen two better riding partners in the whole world. They are so warm and funny, they are constantly looking out for me and never complain when I shove a camera in their face and annoy them with questions when they are exhausted, ill or in pain ( and often all three!) I feel truly honoured that they invited me on this trip and they are certainly my main reason for wanting to complete this adventure successfully.

Thanks to everyone for your support, it really makes a difference and we’re going to need it more than ever in the coming weeks.

 

Raphael x

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Ride to the Ivory Coast

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